Vintage Knitting Tutorial Lesson 1

Vintage Knitting Tutorial Lesson 1 In Lesson 1, we are going to focus on fashion knitting. Hand knitting is one of the most popular crafts today real vintage knits are expensive. Why not knit your own using this series of knitting tutorials. New colors, fibers, yarns, nubby textures, metallic and newer fiber like Bamboo, offer an array of options for quality hand knits.of On this blog you will learn techniques from different countries, there is a wealth of new information that is easily accessible online.of For beginners, these knitting tutorials present a clear guide ot he basic techniques. For more experienced, there are many clever, little-known techniques like the invisible casting on method, along with a range of wearable and home accents and options on how to do your own designing. Tools of the Trade A metal or wooden ruler Scissors Darning needles Rustless steel pins Stitch holder ( like a large safety pin, to hold stitches not in use) Row counter Knitting needle gauge to check correct needle size and gauge Cloth or plastic bag in which to keep knitting clean. Iron and ironing board with pad Pressing cloth Know your needles Modern knitting needles are usually made of lightweight coated metal, bamboo or plastic, and should always be kept in good condition. Bent, scratched or uneven needles will spoil the evenness of your work and should be discarded. For straight knitting–that is, knitting backwards and forwards on two needles, needles with knobs at one end are advisable, as they lessen the possibility of dropped stitches, which is frustrating to the most even-tempered knitter. For socks, gloves, certain types of sweaters and any garment which is knitted in the round, that is, in a circle instead of straight–a set of four or more needles are used, pointed at both ends. A flexible circular needle is used for some designs for seamless circular garments, like skirts. The effect is the same as dividing the work among three or more needles, but the work is much easier to handle and one avoids having loose stitches where the needles join. Knitting needle sizes With any knitted design, you will need specified number in a knitting needle. Here is a chart of the American and British sizes. As you will see, with American sizes the lower the number the smaller the diameter of the needle, whereas the British sizes the reverse is true. Yarns and ply Yarn is the word used to describe any spun thread, whether it is fine or thick. It may be a natural fiber like bamboo, wool, cotton, linen, silk, Angora, or mohair, or a man-made fiber like Orion, nylon, and rayon. I absolutely love to stitch with bamboo, that is the best yarn I have ever used and it takes dyes well. When choosing a yarn, you will come across the word ply. This indicates the number of spun single thread that have been twisted together. Each single thread can be spun to any thickness so that a simple reference to the ply does not necessarily determine the thickness of the finished yarn, although the term 2-ply, 3-ply, and 4-ply are often used to mean yarn of a recognized thickness. The following ply classification is broadly applicable to the majority of hand-knitting yarn whether made from wool, man-made fiber or blends of both. Baby yarns are usually made from the higher quality yarns and are available in 3-ply and 4-ply. 2-ply, 3-ply and 4-ply yarns may consist of wool, wool and made-made fiber blends, or 100% made-made fiber. Sport Weight yarns are usually 4-ply yarns in which the single strands are about 1/2 the thickness of knitting worsted. Knitting Worsted yarns are the most widely used of all yarns and are usually made from four spun single threads (although there are exceptions to this), twisted together to produce hard-wearing yarns. Bulky yarns can either be 2-ply, 3-ply or 4-ply. They are spun like any other basic yarn, but each strand is of a heavier weight. Dress yarns are usually novelty yarns, spun in a completely different manner to he basic yarn in order to create more interesting and unusual textures. They are generally designated according to ply. Very important Since vintage yarns were not subject to any official standardization, yarns marketed by different companies often vary in thickness and in yardage/meters. If you cannot obtain the yarn suggested in the directions, or have set your heart on something else, it is possible to use other yarn, provided you can obtain the same gauge as given in the pattern. Always buy enough yarn at one time, especially is you are using custom dyed yarns. Although dye-lot are no longer significant, it is still a good idea to buy a bit more than you need because unsightly lines across your work will mar your whole garment. Your success depends on gauge To make an design successfully, it is absolutely vital that you obtain the same gauge as given in the instructions. This point cannot be over-emphasized. This mean that you must obtain the same number of stitches to the inch and also the same number of rows to the inch as the design calls for. To test you knit gauge, cast on 20 sts with the needles that are recommended. Work even for 3 inches in the given pattern. Bind off and press slightly. Pin down on paper. with a ruler, measure across one inch, then down one inch, counting the number of stitches and rows to the inch. If you have more stitches to the inch than given in the instructions, use a larger needle. If you have fewer stitches and rows to the inch than given, use a smaller needle. Continue to work up swatches until the gauge is correct. Testing the gauge not only applies to the beginner but also to the experienced knitter. My intent is not to preach but a few minutes spent on this preparation lays the foundation for a successful project. If it is overlooked, a great deal of work may be all for naught before the error in size is realized. Even half a stitch too many or too few, although seemingly little, amounts to nine stitches too may or too few on the back of a 34-inch sweater. This can mean the completed sweater is 2 inches too large or too small. Once you have worked your gauge swatch, lay it out on a flat surface and pin it down. Place a tape measure on your knitting and mark out one inch with pins. Count the number of stitches between the two pins very carefully. The gauge swatch is pinned into a perfect square, ready to measure.   Abbreviations Here is a list of knitting terms that are usually printed in a shortened form. In some design, it is necessary to use a special abbreviation applicable to that design only. In such a case, the abbreviation will be explained at the point where it is used, or placed in a clear note before the beginning of the directions. Choose you casting on method The next step in knitting is casting on, which provides the first row of loops, or stitches on the needle. There are various was of casing on, each with its own appropriate use, and here, the two most popular methods are outlined. Also, the intriguing invisible European/Continental method, which may be new to many experienced knitters, is introduced. The Thumb methods (using one needle) is an excellent way to begin most garments, since it gives an elastic and, therefore, hard-wearing edge. On the other hand, the two needle  (or English cable) version is necessary when you want to cast on extra stitches during the knitting itself, for instance for a buttonhole or a pocket. Thumb method using one needle To cast on make slip loop in the yarn about a yard from the end. (This length varies with the number of stitches to be cast on–allow about 1/2″ for each stitch in medium and about 1 inch for each stitch in heavier yarn. A guide to the length required is the width of the piece of knitting to be cast on, multiplied by three.) Take a look at a couple of videos that illustrate the most common method of casting on. Grandmother’s Easy Thumb Knit Cast On Method <iframe width=”420″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/4Teo8JETmi4″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen> Casting On – Thumb Method – Deramores Knitting Tutorial <iframe width=”560″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/iG7YiILaqRg” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen> The invisible European method of casting on gives the fashionably flat-hemmed effect of a machine-made garment, It is flexible, strong finish which can hold ribbon or elastic and is very useful for designs which need casings. Two needle method or English cable To cast on make a slip loop in the yarn as given for the Thumb method, at least three inches from the end. It is not necessary to try and estimate the length of yarn required to cast on the number of stitches with this method, as you will be working from the ball of yarn. Slip this loop onto the left-hand knitting needle. 4. Repeat steps described in paragraph 3 between last 2 stitches on the left-hand needle until the required number of stitches have been cast on. Many folks like myself learned to knit long before videos were commonplace, so let’s take advantage of technology, take a look at these videos, they might help you pick-up the technique quicker. How to Cast On – 2 Needles Method – Quick Knitting Tutorial <iframe width=”560″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/5T43J_cYlSU” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen> Knitting Basics – Two-Needle Cast On <iframe width=”560″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/zQy4fO56gQ4″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen> Invisible or Provisional casting on method Even if you are an experienced knitter, you’ll be delighted to discover the many uses to which this marvelous new technique lends itself. 1. Using a contrast yarn, which is later removed, and the Thumb method cast on half the number of stitches required, plan one. Now using the correct yarn for the garment, begin the ribbing. 6th row. Ki, *P1, K2, rep from * to end. 7th row. P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end. The Invisible or Provisional cast on is by far the most complicated to learn, videos will really help you master this technique. EASIEST Provisional Cast On <iframe width=”560″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/_T7OwOpC6CY” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen>iframe> How to do an invisible or provisional cast in your knitting <iframe width=”420″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/UYvQzBpReH4″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen>iframe> How to Knit the Invisible Cast On <iframe width=”560″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/XShBARLtVrg” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen></iframe> Knitting Know-How Before you begin your first project let’s practice the basic stitches and important techniques. You will also have an opportunity to create your test swatches so that you can see what your project pattern should look like. In knitting, there are only two basic stitches, knit and purl. A wide variety of pattern is possible using just one or a combination of both of these stitches. And depending on the needles and yarn you choose, the texture of these patterns can range from smooth to heavy, or even be as light as lace. How to join Always join yarn at the beginning of a row, never in the center, or it will spoil the continuity of the stitches. The only exception is when you are using circular or double-pointed needles, which will be featured in a later section. Leave a short length of yarn at the end of the row, begin the next row with new yarn, again leaving a short end for darning in. Tie these ends together in a square knot. You can then darn these ends neatly into the edge when your knitting is finished. How to measure Never try to lay the work to be measured over your knee or along the arm of the chair, Be certain that you lay the knitting on a flat surface and that you measure with a non-stretch ruler rather than a tape measure. Do not include the cast-on edge in your measurement, but begin with the base of the first row. when measuring an…...