Vintage Interchangable Yarn Guide

About a month ago, a follower asked about what modern yarn to use for a vintage knitting project.

My response to a baffling question was it is all about the gauge–but what also matters is the texture of the vintage piece and what your personal preferences are.

Part 1 of this vintage interchangeable yarn guide provides an overview of the types of yarn by needle size, which affects the finished gauge.

Many yarns are interchangeable.

Define interchangeable – by interchangeable, I mean that two yarns knitted or crocheted by the same person on needles or hooks the same size will have the same gauge (the same number of stitches to the inch (cm). The yarns may be quite different in texture, or they may be the same type of yarn from two different yarn companies.

To prepare this resource, yarns were knitted or crocheted using basic stitches (i.e., stockinette/chain). A suitable needle or hook size was used for each yarn. Yarns used with the same needles or hooks, which were found to have the same gauge, are arranged alphabetically in groups listed under the needle or hook size used and the gauge obtained. The hook/needle size and the gauge are not necessarily the same as those suggested in specific knitting or crochet directions. Just about every yarn can be crocheted or knitted on several needle or hook sizes and in many different pattern stitches, thus changing the gauge.

In this guide, the yarns in each group may have different textures, ranging from soft and smooth to rough, nubby, hairy, looped, or slubbed. The fiber content is noted with each yarn to help you choose the yarn that best suits your purpose. Care must be taken in substituting cotton, linen or metallic for wool since these fibers have less elasticity and added stitches are needed to obtain proper fit.

Yarns Not Included

Some yarns are omitted: yarns that do not interchange, such as ribbons, too individual in their properties to be included. I will add another reference to discuss those properties. However, I have listed some considerations especially for bag and hat making.

It is sometimes possible to substitute one yarn for another, even though the two yarns do not appear to be interchangeable, by changing the needle size. This is determined by crocheting or knitting a swatch in the substitute yarn to see if the proper gauge can be obtained and the texture is satisfactory. In any case, a swatch should always be made before starting a project.

It is essential to note that numerous factors contribute to variations in yardage, including humidity, temperature, stretch, tension, and the method of yarn measurement. Therefore, our calculations are approximate and may vary significantly.

Interchangeable Yarns List

Needle/Hook Size 2

Needle Size 2 | 7 1/2 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 2 | 7 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 2 | 6 1/2 Stitches = 1″

Needle /Hook Size 3

Needle Size 3 | 8 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 3 | 7 1/2 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 3 | 7 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 3 | 6 1/2 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 3 | 6 Stitches = 1″

Needle Size 3 | 5 Stitches = 1″

We will end this section with needle and hook size 3, if you’re looking to substitute another type of yearn please post your question.

Here’s another link that’s been around for a while, listing numerous vintage yarn types, which you might find helpful.

http://www.vintageknits.com/vintyarn1.html

Here are a few free vintage pattern links where gauge is an essential factor for success when knitting and crocheting patterns that you might want to test this new information. I would like to suggest that you enlarge the image that accompanies the pattern to see the texture and any characteristics of the yarn that might affect the outcome of your piece.

Substitutes for Hiawatha, Dritz, Mary Lamb, and others: Gimp Straw, and other bag crocheting materials:

Gimp Straw was a type of loosely woven, stiff fabric made of rayon or rayon-wrapped cotton popular in the mid-20th century for crocheting bags and hats. While it’s no longer readily available, numerous materials can be used as substitutes, each offering unique textures and characteristics for your crocheted bags.

Natural fiber alternatives

Cotton Yarn: A durable and readily available option, cotton yarn is renowned for its strength, durability, and minimal stretch, making it an ideal choice for creating structured bags that maintain their shape well. Cotton yarn comes in various weights and textures, including mercerized cotton, which provides a smoother, more lustrous finish, and blends with acrylic for added softness. According to HiCrochet, cotton yarn is also machine washable and holds color well.
Linen: A natural fiber with properties similar to cotton, linen is strong, inelastic, washable, and biodegradable. It may be stiff to work with initially, but softens with washing. Linen production requires a significant amount of water, so consider organic options if sustainability is a concern.
Hemp: Another sustainable and strong natural fiber, hemp requires less water for production than cotton. It’s durable and resistant to stretching. Hemp may be coarse to work with, but wearing gloves can make the process easier. It’s available in natural and dyed shades.
Jute: A coarse but strong and versatile fiber from the Corchorus plant. Jute is inexpensive, biodegradable, and requires minimal water, fertilizer, or pesticides to grow. Its rough texture can be softened with washing or by wearing gloves during crocheting. Jute packaging twine is a readily available and cost-effective option.
Raffia: Made from palm leaves, raffia offers a unique texture, good shape retention, and water-repellent properties, notes Loopara. It’s biodegradable and comes in various colors. Raffia works well for summer bags and baskets.
Wool (Felted): While standard wool yarn is stretchy and prone to pilling, felting it after crocheting can create a dense, durable, and soft fabric for bags. Felting involves washing 100% wool yarn in hot water with agitation, causing the fibers to shrink and interlock with one another.
Milk Cotton Yarn: A blend that combines cotton and milk fiber, it is renowned for its softness.

Synthetic and recycled material alternatives

Acrylic Yarn: A synthetic and affordable option, acrylic yarn is durable, colorfast, and easy to care for. It’s available in a wide array of colors and textures. However, acrylic is known for pilling and stretching, so consider using a smaller hook size and/or lining the bag to maintain shape.
Recycled Yarn: Made from post-consumer waste materials, such as fabric scraps or plastic bottles, recycled yarns offer a sustainable option. They come in various blends and textures, including recycled denim, wool, and polyester, and can be used to create durable bags.
T-Shirt Yarn: A bulky and durable yarn made from recycled t-shirt fabric, also known as jersey yarn, T-yarn, and tarn. It works up quickly and creates structured bags that hold their shape well. However, its thickness can limit design options.
Corde, Cordette, Soutache, Kordette: These are some materials that are similar to gimp and could be suitable for crocheting bags, according to Crochetville.
Nylon threads and mason’s line: These are very durable and strong options for bag crocheting.
Plastic Bags: Cutting plastic bags into strips (plarn) creates a durable and waterproof material, perfect for tote and shopping bags.
Ribbon Yarns: These yarns are typically made from materials that do not stretch and are available in a variety of colors.

Important considerations for selecting materials

Strength and Durability: Consider the intended use of the bag. For heavier items, choose stronger fibers such as cotton, linen, hemp, or jute. For lighter loads or occasional use, other options, such as acrylic or blends, may be suitable, potentially with a lining.
Elasticity and Stretch: Less stretchy fibers, such as cotton and hemp, are preferable for structured bags to prevent sagging. If using stretchy yarns like wool or acrylic, consider lining the bag with a sturdy fabric.
Washability and Colorfastness: Choose materials that are easy to clean and won’t bleed dye onto clothing.
Texture and Ease of Use: Certain materials, such as jute, can be rough on the hands. Consider the texture you desire for the finished bag and your comfort level with different materials.
Sustainability: Opt for recycled or organic fibers if environmental concerns are a priority.

Tips for stiffening crochet bags

Beyond material selection, consider these techniques for a sturdier bag:

Choosing the right stitches: Tighter stitches, such as single crochet, waistcoat stitch, or slip stitch, create a stiffer fabric. Avoid open, lacy stitches.
Using a smaller hook: This creates tighter stitches and a more rigid fabric.
Doubling the yarn: Crocheting with two strands of yarn simultaneously increases thickness and stiffness.
Adding a lining or interfacing: A fabric lining or interfacing layer provides support, helping the bag maintain its shape.
Using a stiffening agent: Commercial fabric stiffeners or homemade solutions, such as liquid cornstarch or a PVA glue mixture, can be applied to the finished bag for added stiffness.

By carefully considering your needs and exploring the wide range of available materials and techniques, you can successfully substitute for Hiawatha Gimp Straw and create beautiful and functional crocheted bags.